View Full Version : Landscape Lighting Wiring
tomasjpoolguy
06-01-2010, 11:10 PM
Where do you guys run your landscape lighting wiring when also installing pavers? Do you run it under the process, in the process, under the sand or on top of the sand. Do you run it through conduit or not?
Thanks.
bcwsport
06-02-2010, 12:07 AM
I have run line on literally hundreds of hardscapes and alway run beneath the pavers, above or slightly burrowed in the sand. Through the walls etc. Instead of hubs, I generally daisy chain and create loops if I am worried about a drop in voltage. 12/2 cable is my default choice, however 24 voltage capability is making me think twice about that. Integral lighting is still only available in 12 volts, so for now that is what I do.
tomasjpoolguy
06-05-2010, 10:11 PM
Cool...thanks...also easier to get to if you need to redo/fix wiring.
Evening Star Lighting
06-08-2010, 10:58 PM
For our paver lights, we recommend laying 12/2 right on your sand bed, and placing the pavers on top. When your layout is complete, but before tamping, measure and calculate your fixture spacing and placement.. Mark those pavers for removal. Tamp, but don't apply sand around the fixture area. Remove the marked paver(s) and install your lighting fixture. The cable will be easy to access right below the paver. Tip: Don't place your cable in such close proximity that a fixture will be right over the cable. Allow for a foot or so of working room.
zettle007
07-01-2011, 11:55 AM
For our paver lights, we recommend laying 12/2 right on your sand bed, and placing the pavers on top. When your layout is complete, but before tamping, measure and calculate your fixture spacing and placement.. Mark those pavers for removal. Tamp, but don't apply sand around the fixture area. Remove the marked paver(s) and install your lighting fixture. The cable will be easy to access right below the paver. Tip: Don't place your cable in such close proximity that a fixture will be right over the cable. Allow for a foot or so of working room.
Thank you for the info. I am highly considering using your lights. I will be going to one of your distriburtors today to get 1 paver done and install on my landscape line to see how I like it.
where do you put the 12/2 to start from the transformer, under the edge?
How far can the 1st light be from the transformer? does it matter?
What exactly is a loop?
For the wall lights what is the best way to run the wire. Will the pavers have to be chisled out? for the wire to lay?
Thanks again
Evening Star Lighting
07-03-2011, 04:44 PM
Thank you for the info. I am highly considering using your lights. I will be going to one of your distriburtors today to get 1 paver done and install on my landscape line to see how I like it.
where do you put the 12/2 to start from the transformer, under the edge?
How far can the 1st light be from the transformer? does it matter?
What exactly is a loop?
For the wall lights what is the best way to run the wire. Will the pavers have to be chisled out? for the wire to lay?
Thanks again
On typical applications where the transformer is mounted to a home or structure it would be advisable to route the cables in 1/2" PVC outdoor conduit. The conduit can run below the pavers, & the cables continue through the bedding sand. It is not a requirement to use conduit, but it will protect the cables from string trimmers, shovels, lawn equipment, and give a professional appearance.
There should be approximately 10' of cable between the transformer & the first fixture. This allows for some voltage drop with the resistance in the cable. This is to prevent premature bulb failure due to high input current. This may not apply depending on the transformer you use.
There may be several definitions for 'loop'. Fixtures that are to be connected to the power supply cable with wire nuts, will need slack in the circuit cable at each proposed fixture location. This is to provide extra room for cutting & splicing.
When installing Paver Lights, we recommend laying the circuit cable in a continous loop or path around your entire project, and returning back to the transformer. Make sure to observe the correct polarity when splicing cable ends together- conductor to conductor with NO markings on the insulation, & conductor to conductor WITH markings on the insulation.
There are several reasons for the loop. 1) It allows for an even voltage distribution along the cable length, with minimal voltage drop and/or dim lights the further away from the transformer. 2) Most paver lights are added after the paver project is complete. This allows for even spacing, measuring, and allowance for tables, chairs & planters not to be placed where a fixture might have been placed prior to completion of the patio. We offer our Paver Lights with a Power Tap Connector. It allows for you (the contractor) to place circuit cable quickly on the sand setting bed, and continue laying pavers as not to hold up your production. The Paver Lights can be added after, by simply measuring for spacing, removing one or two pavers, & the cable is right under them. The Power Tap Connector will 'tap' into the circuit cable without cutting or splicing. They are weather proof and reusable should a fixture need to be relocated for whatever reason- Such as a door mat, or future BBQ placed where a fixture is.
Wiring for wall lights is simple. You should have a lighting plan prior to construction. Feed your cable up from the base or behind the backfill. On hollow block, you may run the cable up from the inside. The connections can be done inside the block, or behind the wall. I prefer the inside so the cables are protected from future planting. To mount the fixture, mark the location of the cable exiting the fixture onto your block. Using a angle grinder with diamond blade or cut off saw, cut a small kerf, extending from the face of the block to the inside or back. The kerf should be 1/2" deep. Fit the fixture to the block and check how it fits.. Block with an aggressive rock face may need some chipping/hammering until the face plate butts up nicely. Place a small amount of block adhesive under the flange and place it. Make sure the fixture's cable is pulled into the block, & the Lamp Module is free/clear of protrusions that may cause shadowing. These should be chipped off. Make sure to check the operation of all fixtures BEFORE gluing any caps down!
Enjoy!
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