general ?'s

[bigvictu]

Just a few general questions. When uplighting trees when do you guys decide to use a well light vs a bullet light pointed upwards? I've strictly used well lights for tall trees. When doing a path say 25' or more do you try to put the lights on eithr side staggered or all on one side of the path?I've done both and assume that it depends on the pathway but would like some more input How far apart do you put them?I usually try 10' minimum. Do you guys generally use 10 or 12 gauge wire? I was taught at the cast seminar to use 10 since it isn't much more expensive and helps keep you from losing amperage on long runs. It definatley is harder to work with in the transformer than the 10. It also takes up more room in the common lugs and I would think in a large job that it might keep you from adding more runs since you can only fit so many into the terminal vs a 12. Do any of you use both 10 and 12 on the same job? I;m definately still a beginner but its fun. I've been using mostly alliance transformers with their lights and integral lights.

[Dreams To Designs]

The flexibility of uplights over wells is a big feature, as you can easily adjust them or move them when necessary. With well lights you also have the issue of leaves or mulch getting into the well and disrupting the light beam. I prefer to use well lights only when another fixture will not due, as in a lawn area.

When lighting a path, lamps should be placed at any change in elevation, such as steps or at curves or diversions for safety, than address aesthetics with placement. Many situations may dictate placement only on one side as fixtures placed in lawn areas will be subject to landscaper blight from trimmers or mowers. Distance apart will be dictated by the fixture and lamps as to their useful photometrics. A tall, large shaded fixture with a 20 watt lamp can be placed farther apart than a smaller, 10 watt fixture. When possible, i prefer an area light as a path light to also illuminate plants or garden areas as well as the paths or walkways.

For wire size, a simple rule is less than 100 watts or 100', 12 gauge is plenty. More than 100 watts or 100' go for the 10 gauge. It doesn't hurt to go with bigger wire, but it can be more costly and difficult to run.

If you are happy with the Alliance transformers, stick with them. Many transformers are very similar internally and only differ in their features or case sizes. A Cast transformer in the higher end models offer multiple commons with circuit breakers on up to six to allow for more flexibility and easier diagnostics.

Check out some of the other offerings for the under cap or step light, like Vista or Evening Star, both have improved on the integral idea and offer better photometrics and less glare. Almost every manufacturer is offering a cap light and most have vastly improved on the original idea.

Kirk

[GreenMonster]

I'm not a big fan of the well lights either. I don't like the fact that they are a catch all for mulch, leaves and other yard debris. Typically, they are not gonna have any adjustment either. Instead, we primarily uplight with bullets.

Path lighting it would be acceptable to light one side say if you had lawn on the outside, and a plant bed on the inside/house side. If I were to light both sides of the path, I would certainly stagger the fixtures to avoid the "runway" look. You can also lessen the need for path lights by using some bullets on plant material which can provide some reflective light.

10awg is not always better. If your run is too short, or if even if you don't have enough fixtures in it, you'll find yourself with too many volts and possibly having to drop down to a lower tap that might not exist. On the vista multi tap transformer for example, I believe there is only one 11 volt tap. It's pretty tough trying to fit three or four runs into one tap, especially if it's 10awg wire.

FWIW, I typically use vista transformers and fixtures

[NCSULandscaper]

if you switch to Unique's 24V system, you can run twice the amount of lights on a 12/2 wire, which means less costs

[4seasons]

thats just a sales gimmic. When you do that the lights might run fine for awhile but the its a domino effect when they start going out.

[MuirView Design]

Check out some of the other offerings for the under cap or step light, like Vista or Evening Star, both have improved on the integral idea and offer better photometrics and less glare. Almost every manufacturer is offering a cap light and most have vastly improved on the original idea.

Kirk


I agree. I just used Unique's Vanguard cap light and have checked out Vista's as well. I think integral lights are way to "hot", as there is no diffuser lens. The Unique lights were nice that they had a "deep wall" extension tab for adding the lights to stacked stone, plus a 25' lead.

[NCSULandscaper]

thats just a sales gimmic. When you do that the lights might run fine for awhile but the its a domino effect when they start going out.

what are you talking about?

[4seasons]

If I'm reading your post correctly...
When you hook into a 24v system, you do need more lights to bring the "magic" number down(11.7- 10.7). But when one light burns out, the others start to spike in voltage resulting in premature burnouts. One way to get around it is to use LED, but then you could use any transformer then.

[NCSULandscaper]

no, the 24V system uses 24V bulbs, but its not about voltage its about amps, with a 24V system your voltage loss is about half of a 12V, and you can use 12 and 14 gauge wire with runs as long as 800'...........i went to one of the demos Unique had and its an incredible system......... And also with most LED lights, you have to use a DC transformer instead of AC.....I install recessed LED lights in decks, and have to use a DC transformer......so you have to be careful and read which type of electricity those LEDs use.

Check out the Unique system in this PDF

http://www.uniquelighting.com/Spec%20Sheets/IntelliSystemsbook.pdf

[4seasons]

thats a pretty cool system. I will look into that for suppliers

[danf]

Most places you need to be a licensed electrician to install anything over 15 volts, thus the reason many multi-tap transformers max out at 15V. How do you get around that with a 24V system?

Some of the LED's have built-in "drivers" that allow them to be hooked into a normal low voltage system.

[NCSULandscaper]

ive been advised by a couple of my suppliers to stay away from the LEDs with drivers.......case in point i know around here the stop lights have been switched to LED, i have noticed that half of the lights have already burnt out, its because the drivers only last a year or 2 at the most..........they told me its best not to use LED until the technology is better because easch LED light for low voltage fixtures is in the $50-60 each range

[SCgreenscapes]

the Unique 24v system is the way to go. It saves you on wire and labor running extra runs. the 24v system uses 24v bulbs. the 24v system also has a wider acceptable range of voltage which allows for some fixtures to be a different length of wire than the others and still get the same output. You also get twice the allowed wattage per run as with 12v. there is also the amount of transformer that is acceptable to use. the 12v system ask that you not exceed 80% of the rated capacity while the 24v system allows for 90% of the rated capacity. there are a lot of benefits, it is just a change of mindset for us contractors. I use nothing but 24v now.

[danf]

I still would like to know how you get around the requirement for a licensed electrician?

[cgland]

look at Cast Lighting's version of the integral. has the lens for diffusing the light with the added advantage of the 25' lead.

[Evening Star Lighting]

For 2010, we are offering a 6' and a 10' Wire Harness length on all the Crescent series fixtures. We can make longer leads too. Is 25' worth offering?