So I screwed up on a job a few years ago.

[mrusk]

A few years ago we did a decent size planting job. I was very green then and clearly did not bring in enough topsoil. The plants are not doing well. They are not dieing just pretty much are just not doing anything. Since its not a busy year I am considering going in pulling out all the small stuff, over digging all the holes and put in a lot of good organic top soil.


The trees don't seem to be doing bad. Its mostly the garden junipers, barberry and some grasses. I know they just do not have enough nutritians.

Will this be successful or will stuff start dieing on me?

[chardscapes]

Matt use spell check man. ;) I assume this job is still under warranty ?

[mrusk]

Matt use spell check man. ;) I assume this job is still under warranty ?

I think its out of warranty now. I got to check to make sure. But that really does not make much of a difference to me. If I screwed up on a job I want to fix it. I'd be embrassed if in 10 years the plants are still small.

[ClearValley]

Matt,
Don't jump to conclusions. Most "organic" top soils have elements that decompose. Decompostion uses nitrogen which plants need to stay green.Adding top soil will not neccasarily green up the plants but adding nitrogen will. I have found that using liquid fertilizers like miracle grow or Peters 3x's a year makes an amazing difference. There could be other problems as well example the junipers may have mites or a twig blight such as phomopsis (is there overhead irrigation. )

Your best bet would be to pay me to diaganose the problem:dance: Better yet post some pictures and I'll do it for free. Cut some samples and bring them to the county AG agent and see what they come up with. Make sure the samples are a mix between living and damaged. Don't bring a dead branch or they will tell you it's dead.

[ClearValley]

Seriously. FEED THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!WELL Do it again mid summer and again in the fall. Make sure the plants are moist first.In general follow the label

[JZap]

Do you have clay up there or sandy soil? I agree with the statements about topsoil. There isn't much nutrients in "most" screened topsoil, unless of course you get organic liek you said. But you shouldn't plant in 100% topsoil. I would wait a couple weeks until the weather breaks, and either hit it with a water soluible as mentioned for an immediate effect as it comes out of dormancy. I have to say though...if the junipers and grasses are dying? Are any of these plants by the driveway per chance? Salt could be a culprit. I would also spread either a plant tone or other granular time released fert. Miracle gro really isn;t that potent, but just don't spray more often than every 2 weeks if using both ferts.

[ClearValley]

Matt. Send pictures. If you want to determine fertilizer potency you need to know the analysis first ex 10-10-10 is 10 % nitrogen 10% phosphorus and 10% pottassium. Balanced fertilizers are better for plants because you get healthier plants without excessive top growth. Urea fertilizers can be 46-0-0 high nitrogen (that's what companies like TruGreen use to green lawns up fast.) Don't use on plants use a balanced. Remember a dry must become a liquid to be uptaken by the roots and solubles are easier/safer. If you dry. Use holly-tone on junipers and barberry? (check bag) but be careful not to get a lot a fert on the foliage as it will burn.

[MuirView Design]

There is a lot you can do to recover plants. First make sure your not dealing with anaerobic soil. Then exactly what Larry said is what I would do.

Did they call you to tell you they where not doing good? I hate when people call me after the plants are too far gone to remedy.

[mrusk]

They did not complain. I am just not happy with it. 3 houses down had pleanty of top soil and the plants are doing great.

[4seasons]

when you plant, do you make sure you scuff the roots up a bit to make sure they are not girdling the plant?
This helps alot also. Plants will just sit for years. Helpful bacteria also helps in making the bad soils livable for plants.
I agree with Clear valley feeding will help too.

[ClearValley]

They did not complain. I am just not happy with it. 3 houses down had pleanty of top soil and the plants are doing great.

Good for you Matt!!!!

[dclark2037]

Before I do any plantings I have a soil sample run to see what the soil is actually lacking. Take it the ag office and they will send it off and have it analysed for you. Takes all the guess work out of it.

[Harmony Design Group]

Before I do any plantings I have a soil sample run to see what the soil is actually lacking. Take it the ag office and they will send it off and have it analysed for you. Takes all the guess work out of it.

I just attended a Bartlett Tree Expert conference. What you need to do is get the soil samples. Then have the local extension service do the analysis to determine what nutrients are lacking. Then you can give the plants a prescription fertilizer treatment. The second most important thing to do is make sure all the plants are mulched well. make sure there is no more then 2-3" of mulch. The research showed mulching is the single best thing you can do for plants. Also check with the owner to determine if they have been watering the new plants during the hot summers. Not watering can really effect the plant growth. To much water can also damage the plants.

For future plantings. The best thing to do is get a soil analysis before you start the project or ask the homeowner to get this. Then till the beds to eliminate soil compaction. Till in compost to improve the soil structure. This wil allow more water and oxygen to enter the soil and feed the roots. Always remove the burlap and string from around the tree trunks and remove the top 1/2 of the metal cage. loosen roots for container plantings. Mulch beds with 2-3" of hardwood mulch. Pull mulch away from the base of shrubs and trees. I also install a pre emergent herbicide to prevent weed growth.

[ClearValley]

For future plantings. The best thing to do is get a soil analysis before you start the project or ask the homeowner to get this. Then till the beds to eliminate soil compaction. Till in compost to improve the soil structure. This wil allow more water and oxygen to enter the soil and feed the roots. Always remove the burlap and string from around the tree trunks and remove the top 1/2 of the metal cage. loosen roots for container plantings. Mulch beds with 2-3" of hardwood mulch. Pull mulch away from the base of shrubs and trees. I also install a pre emergent herbicide to prevent weed growth.[/QUOTE]

Excellent info. Also be careful when backfilling plants. The backfill should not be chunky or lumpy and absolutely no grass clumps. The backfill should be able to disperse uniformly around the ball. We will backfill about 50 to 75% then water the plant and allow it to drain. This allows the soil to move in around the rootball and prevents air pockets. Make sure that the bottom of the holes are firm so the palnts won't settle...Good Thread!

[kootoomootoo]

A few years ago we did a decent size planting job. I was very green then and clearly did not bring in enough topsoil. The plants are not doing well. They are not dieing just pretty much are just not doing anything. Since its not a busy year I am considering going in pulling out all the small stuff, over digging all the holes and put in a lot of good organic top soil.


The trees don't seem to be doing bad. Its mostly the garden junipers, barberry and some grasses. I know they just do not have enough nutritians.

Will this be successful or will stuff start dieing on me?

I'm guessing house with big walls in front of it (base is 36in wide....you did entryway pillars across the road)

[mrusk]

Thats right koo. But when I make a mistake I will always be the first to man up and fix it. When I am wrong I have no proablem taking responsibility for my actions.

[GreenMonster]

Good thread. Good info too. Yes, at this point Matt, get a soil sample and see what is lacking. It would be difficult to add topsoil at this point, and as many said, that isn't going to give you long term nutrients to the plants. You would be better off selling your customers an annual fert program, in addition to top dressing with compost. Again, a balanced fertilizer is going to give you more than just green-up. You'll also get root development, better flowering, drought and disease resistance, etc. If you are going to fert, do it in the spring. Don't do it late season where you will end up pushing new growth when the plant should be storing it's energy for winter.

Another thing that no one mentioned is soil aeration. You may need to get some air into the soil around the plants.

As ClearValley said, get a sample of the juniper and have it tested. Chit, if you can't grow a juniper, you might want to get out of planting all together.

[Grn Mtn]

i've had good success when installing plants adding this: http://www.bio-plex.com/mycorrhizalfungi.asp

[STLPONDS]

Matt, did you use a root stimulator when planting?