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bcwsport
09-21-2008, 02:01 PM
Ok, I hope I just figured out how to attatch pics. if so, this is a job we just finished with a Tressle style porch and a 610 sq/ft patio using EP Henry coventry wall and cambridge pavers.

bcwsport
09-21-2008, 02:09 PM
I am in love with polymeric sand!

JZap
09-22-2008, 02:42 AM
Nice work... I'd keep your love for polysand on the DL. You're opening yourself up for ridicule with some of the guys... but seriously nice design and work.

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 10:24 AM
Thank you for the compliment, most appreciative. What's wrong with polymeric sand? Is it a green thing? I am in the dark on this concept.......Insight?

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 10:40 AM
This job required a massive backfill done with (only) a Dingo! Luckily, the yard was so solid, the dump trucks left nary an imprint.We split the EP Henry coventry wall and veneered the block retaining wall. 9 yards and steel in the footing. Kind of wish we would have carried the mortared joints to the top. This was the 1st job of this magnitude I took on....these people wanted a patio where a deck would typically be used. The upper patio is 7' above the lower. The floor is Belgard dublin.

chardscapes
09-22-2008, 11:16 AM
What was the price tag on that last job ?
I don't like the wall the way it was done of the side of the steps. I would have angled the installed a handrail. How does the sitting wall drain where the firepit is. It looks like that water would pool there. Good work !

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 11:21 AM
Actually, we did install rails both down the main steps and from the door on the upper patio. I need to go back and get final pics. Am waiting for the landscapers....grass etc. Wasn't cheap, but my profit margin was not what I would get if I did this again. fortunately, the homeowners are aware of this. I am happy with what everyone involved achieved here;)

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 11:24 AM
The the firepit has a drain inside of it and the patio is slightly concave to drain out of the main exit to the back yard. Apperently, the patio drained very well after the last tropical depression.

chardscapes
09-22-2008, 11:40 AM
Very nice work. I just looked at your website. You are not that far from me. I am in Carroll county.

CMSStoneworks
09-22-2008, 01:03 PM
very nice. I really like the look of the motared joints on the wall. gives it a nice finished look.

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 04:42 PM
Carroll County....beautiful part of the state. I head out that way when I am going to pick up quarry stones from Comus. Dolomitic Limestones.........

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 04:49 PM
Beautiful landscape boulders + veneer stones. Kind of unique looking stuff. Colors are intense and it's a green building material. Some local distributors are just getting their hands on it.

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 04:56 PM
Some more of the stuff they are pulling from 3 quarries in that area.

MuirView Design
09-22-2008, 07:29 PM
Welcome to site BCW. Looks like you got some decent size projects under your belt. That's only way to learn and build confidence.

I must say, I like how you veneered the block wall, but overall, that wall is just overpowering. I think maybe some raised planters or something to break that massive structure up would've been a good way to soften it. My only other critique would be the pillars. The bond lines are way too close together and it looks like it could possibly separate over time. Just be mindful of that in the future.

Good job overall.

bcwsport
09-22-2008, 07:37 PM
Thank you Adam, funny you should mention the pillars....the on at the bottom and top of the stairs were somewhat of an afterthought. We added them a bit lat to reinforce the walls and tried to blend them in. There is quite a bit of polyurethane in them, so I hope they will last. You are right about the overpowering of the wall. I will post new pics once I get them. The homeowner has added quite a large piece of artwork to the large part of the wall. I hope it softens the overall appeal there. Thank you for the critiques.
Craig

bcwsport
09-23-2008, 11:16 PM
Another project from this summer

mrusk
09-23-2008, 11:18 PM
Are those rocks radioactive?

bcwsport
09-23-2008, 11:23 PM
Before and after pics

JZap
09-24-2008, 12:48 AM
This last patio is very nice. I'm kinda baffled by the one with the huge 7' wall. Like Adam mentioned the design aspect really is my main gripe. It looks like decisions were made mid project and not thought out. Sometimes it hard on bigger jobs to factor in so many variables when there are many design elements, different materials, and physical obstacles to overcome. I think there is room for improvement in the finishing touches on that project. Good Job, nonetheless, but you only get better from critics!

BTW I was joking about the polysand... it came across like there was a love affair there. hehe

chardscapes
09-24-2008, 08:24 AM
Are they before you discovered poly sand ???? LOL . What is piped under the first wall ( gutter) ?

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 09:37 AM
This last patio is very nice. I'm kinda baffled by the one with the huge 7' wall. Like Adam mentioned the design aspect really is my main gripe. It looks like decisions were made mid project and not thought out. Sometimes it hard on bigger jobs to factor in so many variables when there are many design elements, different materials, and physical obstacles to overcome. I think there is room for improvement in the finishing touches on that project. Good Job, nonetheless, but you only get better from critics!

BTW I was joking about the polysand... it came across like there was a love affair there. hehe

Ok, I was worried there for 2 seconds on the polysand;)

I must say that the wall is a monster of coventry stone. However, it looks unbelievable at night with the spots accenting it. There is a 5'x5' landscape buffer on the house side of the wall that (apparently) is now full of color. Plus, the homeowner has a large metallic piece of artwork hanging centered on the wall....I will update pics asap. I know there is a bit of room for improvement there on visual effects....but it is really nice in the evening with the fire pit rolling and the spots casting a glow down the wall. The overall size of it, I should have designed a cascading planter there.... It was the first of it's kind for me, no questions there....I was most worried about making it a 100+ yr wall. The border wall on top is 36" in height for safety. This adds to the bulkiness of it. I need to show some night pics though.

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 09:42 AM
Are those rocks radioactive?


I know, they are quite colorful...almost glowing. I used a color enhancer on them, plus I filtered the shot for max color to really allow people to see what they look like. Some of my earlier pics of them do not allow people to fully appreciate the colors in them. Some of the pure dolomite (white crystally quartzy looking stone) looks like it is from Superman's fortress.

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 09:45 AM
Are they before you discovered poly sand ???? LOL . What is piped under the first wall ( gutter) ?


Good question. we did use polysand and had to use a knife to extract it from the small 1" drains in the floor. Another oversight from my implementing this project. We wired a screen onto the tops of our drains to keep them from clogging. Haven't had a drain issue yet (knock on wood)

JZap
09-24-2008, 11:44 AM
One more question, no firebrick inside the firepit? Any problems there?

-EGLC-
09-24-2008, 05:29 PM
That is a HUGE amount of backfilling to do with just a Dingo!!! Why didn't you just rent a skid steer?

Looks really good btw. And those rocks look INSANE!

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 05:55 PM
One more question, no firebrick inside the firepit? Any problems there?

No, it is mudset with a concrete footing. Doing that for 5 yrs now without any problem......bricks just get black.

JZap
09-24-2008, 05:59 PM
Interesting... I was wondering how it held up with the heat as far as adhesives.

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 05:59 PM
That is a HUGE amount of backfilling to do with just a Dingo!!! Why didn't you just rent a skid steer?

Looks really good btw. And those rocks look INSANE!

Tell me about it. The tri-ax came right up and dumped into the space...the dingo just moved it up to the top....couldn't get a loader or a cat into the area once we got well up above grade.

Thanks fro the compliment....was a doozy of a job.
Those dolomitic limestones (maryland marble) are quite insane. Look for interlocking pavers from them coming up in about 12 months or so.....

custom patios
09-24-2008, 06:01 PM
you have peaked my curiosity about that 6 foot masonry wall using the coventry stone. pretty ballzy. would you mind sharing some of the construction methods you chose. That it a very technical wall, even though some may think not. nice work btw.

custom patios
09-24-2008, 06:05 PM
Interesting... I was wondering how it held up with the heat as far as adhesives.

mortar doesnt burn or melt, it just gets brittle over time. The pit is just dead weight so i'm guessing its probably no big deal.

JZap
09-24-2008, 06:06 PM
I'm interested in what's under the upper patio? You poured the larger portion of the wall and is there backfill? What kind of base is under the patio/behind that wall?

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 06:20 PM
I'm interested in what's under the upper patio? You poured the larger portion of the wall and is there backfill? What kind of base is under the patio/behind that wall?

roughly 80 tons of 67 gravel and about 17 tons of structural underlay (stone dust). no fill dirt. the wall is tied into the gravel fill. there is a 36"x36" concrete footing with steele (matte) running through it. That wall should be there long after we are all gone. Unless an asteriod hits it;) oh, and steel runs vertically up through the walls as well.

custom patios
09-24-2008, 06:44 PM
that must have been very tedious to run vertical reinforcement. what size rebar did you use? how well did the slots line up. my problem with wet laying a coventry stone is the tapered sides and the awkward bond you must deal with. how about horizontal reiforcement? These type of walls require special drain fields as I'm sure your aware of. Just curious as to how you handled it.the footer sounds about right, but the stress on that wall should have been calculated. is the back parged properly?My concern over time for you is the stress cracks that will form through the pointing. It looks like you dealt with the bond as good as anyone could with that stone though. its very attractive but we'll see if it stands the test of time as you say. for your sake I hope it does cause that is not a pretty repair job. I admire your willingness to take on a challenge like that wall. most hardscapers I know would walk away.

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 08:20 PM
that must have been very tedious to run vertical reinforcement. what size rebar did you use? how well did the slots line up. my problem with wet laying a coventry stone is the tapered sides and the awkward bond you must deal with. how about horizontal reiforcement? These type of walls require special drain fields as I'm sure your aware of. Just curious as to how you handled it.the footer sounds about right, but the stress on that wall should have been calculated. is the back parged properly?My concern over time for you is the stress cracks that will form through the pointing. It looks like you dealt with the bond as good as anyone could with that stone though. its very attractive but we'll see if it stands the test of time as you say. for your sake I hope it does cause that is not a pretty repair job. I admire your willingness to take on a challenge like that wall. most hardscapers I know would walk away.

The wall a is 12" tmu cinderblock wall. the rebar is 32
" o.c. The block cells are filled with concrete. The wall is also reinforced with wire every 16"...(horizontally reinforced)
The wall is dowed into the house foundation wall every 16" The EP Henry is snapped in half and veneered to the block wall so the tapered ends didn't pose a problem. We originally wanted to lay it in an ashler pattern, but the EP henry is not modular with the joint....so that pattern didn't work. We have 3/4 clean gravel from the pad to the base of the wall (drain Tile).

mrusk
09-24-2008, 08:31 PM
My main concern is how large your footing is. I just had a huge raised patio designed by a engineer. We were doing poured concrete walls from 3- 8 feet high. On the 8 ft high section 8' 6" wide footings were speced.

Then last year we had a 4' tall cmu wall designed by a engineer. The 4' tall wall called for a 3' deep t footing with another 2 ft of the wall burried below grade. That ment 5 feet below grade on a 4' tall wall. Our frost line is 42". The footing for this wall was 4'9" wide.

When it comes to CMU and poured concrete walls the width and size of the footing is what gives it the strength.

I wish you the best of luck.

bcwsport
09-24-2008, 09:00 PM
My main concern is how large your footing is. I just had a huge raised patio designed by a engineer. We were doing poured concrete walls from 3- 8 feet high. On the 8 ft high section 8' 6" wide footings were speced.

Then last year we had a 4' tall cmu wall designed by a engineer. The 4' tall wall called for a 3' deep t footing with another 2 ft of the wall burried below grade. That ment 5 feet below grade on a 4' tall wall. Our frost line is 42". The footing for this wall was 4'9" wide.

When it comes to CMU and poured concrete walls the width and size of the footing is what gives it the strength.

I wish you the best of luck.

Thanks Mrusk. The footing is 48" deep. The concrete pour is 36"x36". The footing was inspected and approved by a PG Co. inspector. In this region, a concrete footing even for an addition nedds only be 30" in depth....18"x18"x30" for a pier style foundation. We ran quite a bit of steel through the footing. I don't even know the exact that the county required amount off of the top of my head. The frost line here is not quite as deep as yours further north. I think it is set at only 21". The county guys didn't blink an eye at it upon final inspection. That wall has so much concrete in it....I can't see it going anywhere. You guys are making me think alot more about it now though........I like that I am getting some really good input in this forum.

custom patios
09-24-2008, 10:40 PM
The wall a is 12" tmu cinderblock wall. the rebar is 32
" o.c. The block cells are filled with concrete. The wall is also reinforced with wire every 16"...(horizontally reinforced)
The wall is dowed into the house foundation wall every 16" The EP Henry is snapped in half and veneered to the block wall so the tapered ends didn't pose a problem. We originally wanted to lay it in an ashler pattern, but the EP henry is not modular with the joint....so that pattern didn't work. We have 3/4 clean gravel from the pad to the base of the wall (drain Tile).

now your talking. I knew you must have some masonry background. otherwise that wall didnt stand a chance.

bcwsport
09-25-2008, 10:46 PM
Some new stuff in progress Coventry walls, Coventry 3 pavers

custom patios
09-25-2008, 11:11 PM
wow, I love how undisturbed the lawn areas are in your work zone. your guys are merry maid scapers lol.

bcwsport
09-25-2008, 11:13 PM
It is because the ground is as hard as a rock!

custom patios
09-25-2008, 11:16 PM
whats your solution for that vent pipe. doesnt that kind of ill thought out builder crap just annoy you?

Meanix
09-25-2008, 11:46 PM
What is it venting? It doesn't make much sense being there no matter what it is. If its a dryer vent its clogged. If it something else not it should be through the roof. If you elbow to the outside of the step to be less visible its going to slow down whatever it it removing from the house. I would have someone come in and relocate it. Why is it under the door?

bcwsport
09-26-2008, 02:42 AM
whats your solution for that vent pipe. doesnt that kind of ill thought out builder crap just annoy you?

Yes, seems to happen more and more often. Whether a deck or patio goes there it should be banned. We are going to put an elbow and vent it out to the side. We installed a filter inside to allow for easy cleaning. Part cost $22 bucks.

chardscapes
09-26-2008, 08:06 AM
Clean worksite ! Are you topping the wall off by the hill with fill ? Nice work I like it.

bcwsport
09-26-2008, 09:22 AM
Yes, we ran about 8 tons of fill dirt in so far. Waiting to see how much the rain compresses it. Beautiful thing is that we had an enormouse dig out about a 1/4 mile away. This provided just about all of the fill we needed. Pics of that job will come next week. Thanks for the compliment.

cgland
09-27-2008, 11:49 AM
Nice work bcw! Keep the pics coming.

bcwsport
09-27-2008, 01:54 PM
Thanks CG! You can plan on it. Will have finished pics of the last one and some new pics of another one this week.

bcwsport
09-27-2008, 11:06 PM
A little brick action. Don't seem to get too many requests from brick seating walls anymore, but have this on and another being worked on now. Added a row of shark's tooth for good measure;)

MuirView Design
09-27-2008, 11:11 PM
That brickwork is sharp bro! That's probably my favorite of the work you've posted so far.

Mark
09-27-2008, 11:18 PM
BCW, nice work! You seem to be involved in an array of hardscape work which is nice to see. I just got done looking through part of your website, are you the owner of Timeless Construction??? Nice to see your work!

bcwsport
09-27-2008, 11:27 PM
I helped build the company yes. I seem to get involved in alot of outdoor living space styles that is for sure. Sometimes my guys want to kill me with all of the variations I develope. But, it keeps things interesting and these days, it helps with getting the work;) So, ultimately, we are all really happy in the company and on the same page as far as the quality we need to produce....We are all trying to become better and better at our functions. Thanks for the props Mark, I really appreciate them.

bcwsport
09-27-2008, 11:27 PM
Oh, and thank you as well Adam

bcwsport
10-02-2008, 08:04 PM
I got some more info on the history and physical characteristics of this natural stone I post pics of. It is called Wakefield Marble by the US geological Survey. Stone from the same source was used in constructing of the Washington Monument. This stuff is up to 200 million yrs old from the triassic era to 600 million yrs old from the cambrian age and has many of the sedements in it. There is tons of the pure calcite and calcium carb. This stuff has iron ore, magnesium. Some specimens of both marbles contain veins and pockets of mica and pyrite, which can stain the marble if it is exposed to the elements.

Check out some history of the stones we all are using here:

http://pubs.usgs.gov/gip/stones/stones4.html

bcwsport
10-07-2008, 12:06 AM
some stuff we are finishing up now

NewHorizon's Land
10-07-2008, 01:19 PM
Why no border on the small walkway?

bcwsport
10-07-2008, 05:47 PM
The walkway is narrow and we used an "I" pattern, so we just continued the pattern from the patio. The walk is only 30" wide and a soldier there would make the pattern look bad. The is an enormous root on one side and a sprinkler head on the other. We only had 30" to work with and the I pattern worked, so we ran with it.

bcwsport
10-07-2008, 05:49 PM
plus, there were no cut pieces needed, so the soldier was not necessary from an engineering perspective. Sorry for the wordy response Justin.....I'm tired

MuirView Design
10-07-2008, 06:22 PM
Looks really nice. I'm curious as to why you didn't put the electrical box on the post outside the patio where it could be hidden? Seems like a bit of an eyesore where it's at. Great job overall.

NewHorizon's Land
10-07-2008, 06:24 PM
Its ok. I was just wondering why you did not run the border there.
Thanks

Pro Cut
10-07-2008, 06:26 PM
how big is the pergola? like length and width...

bcwsport
10-07-2008, 08:04 PM
Looks really nice. I'm curious as to why you didn't put the electrical box on the post outside the patio where it could be hidden? Seems like a bit of an eyesore where it's at. Great job overall.

The outlet was there from the previous above ground pool that was located in the area and the H.O. didn't want to spend a dime to move it. The line came through a concrete footing. I would have loved to move it.

bcwsport
10-07-2008, 08:10 PM
how big is the pergola? like length and width...

9'6"x9'6"x8' (to the header) all in cedar...their existing deck is cedar and we rebuilt the steps....funny, they now are looking to replace the deck:dance: because it is 15 yrs old and is a bit of an eyesore sitting there w/ the new hardscape. I knew it would happen. the tree above is dropping so much crap on the whole thing that they want us to seal everything.

zedosix
10-07-2008, 09:50 PM
Are the owners putting a railing on the upper walkway? Also on your second picture did you build the bottom two steps separately or in one continous run. Looks like you built the wall up three levels with the top step and the bottom two were independant of the wall. Nice work.

bcwsport
10-08-2008, 09:19 AM
Thanks Zedo, we do not have plans for a rail. An organic landscape designer has a design using rectangular concete planters that will grow organic herbs. These will be placed along the edge of the upper area. in the design, there will be 3 round planters and 2 rectangular planters inline with each other....looks good on paper. I will add those picks once they become available.

bcwsport
10-23-2008, 10:01 AM
Here is a job we are just getting underway on. I will post pics to show the entire process. these are the footings for a limestone wall, grill, firepit and water feature. The floor will be 8"x16" travertine in a herringbone pattern. We did the deck as well.

NewHorizon's Land
10-23-2008, 11:45 AM
Did you hand dig this?

ClearValley
10-23-2008, 02:29 PM
What will be were the grass is now?

MuirView Design
10-23-2008, 06:12 PM
Looks like a fun project. Are the limestone walls going to be all stone, or a cmu core? Can't wait to see it! How deep is the footer?

bcwsport
10-23-2008, 06:26 PM
The grass area will be travertine, the walls will be built solid w/out a cmu core, used a 22" bucket on a dingo for the footer dig out and final shaping/clean up w/ shovels.

bcwsport
10-23-2008, 06:35 PM
For those of you that like to look at this type of stuff. This is day 3....footings are poured!

chardscapes
10-23-2008, 06:59 PM
I love construction pics !! Glad to see you are still busy in this area. I am dead ;( How deep are the footings ? 3' ?

ClearValley
10-23-2008, 07:00 PM
22" bucket, is that the backhoe attachment?pics are cool.

mrusk
10-23-2008, 07:42 PM
Would it of not been easier to strip grass/topsoil first?

Meanix
10-23-2008, 07:48 PM
Footer looks very shallow. 18" at most, the fire pit looks like 6 at best. Whats the point should have been drylaid?

bcwsport
10-23-2008, 11:58 PM
the footings are on average 8", the fire pit footing is just for reinforcement of the base of the pit. It is not carrying much weight. the bucket is an old, old backhoe bucket that is supposedly from the late 70's. it has been modified to fit the dingo....works damn good for applications like this.

The grass could have been removed first, we were rushing to get the footers poured before the weekend (we are installing a single 10" layer of block tomorrow. the patios is going to be a good bit above grade

chardscapes
10-24-2008, 08:08 AM
You don't have to goto the frost line with the footings ?

bcwsport
10-24-2008, 09:29 AM
For all of the retaining walls, we did go below the frost line. Look at the 1st series of picks showing the steel, the deeper footers are for the retaining wall, the others are to reinforce the interior/dividing/seating walls, we have 1/2" steel mat running throughout

mrusk
10-24-2008, 11:24 AM
Frost + masonry walls = no good regardless if the the wall is structual or decorative.

MuirView Design
10-26-2008, 04:56 PM
I would also be hesitant to build on a floating footer like that. The firepit should be okay if it's a solid unit. There is a good likelihood the seatwalls will crack over time, whether it's load bearing or not. At this point all you can really do is pray for more global warming. :flame:

Mark
10-26-2008, 09:34 PM
What is the depth of frost line in Maryland?

custom patios
10-26-2008, 10:29 PM
What is the depth of frost line in Maryland?

at least twice as deep as the excavation.

NewHorizon's Land
10-26-2008, 10:55 PM
On the shore its between 24"-32"

chardscapes
10-27-2008, 08:09 AM
32" in MD ...............

bcwsport
10-27-2008, 09:43 AM
The frost line in Howard County MD officially is 36". This is to be re-evaluated in 2010. I think they will lower it, but who knows. Only takes one harsh winter (which we haven't had in 14 years) The retaining walls are at a depth of 36", the dividing walls are not. We have an 8" pour under everything and this will work fine. These walls are going to be solid stone...to make a point, where is the footing beneath this wall?

musclecarboy
10-27-2008, 09:50 AM
You don't throw a bit of clear gravel between the concrete and the soil? I heard it has something to do with moisture wicking (I'm not a concrete guy!).

bigvictu
10-27-2008, 01:22 PM
On the deck the beams and 6x6's are they wrapped, painted, composite? They look really clean.

bcwsport
10-27-2008, 06:01 PM
The posts are sleeved and the header is (boxed) and veneered with Koma Boards. We box them out to make an easier frame to close in. The header is a dbl 2"x10" with 8"x1 1/2" Carriage bolts....we use a 2"x4" so the carriage bolts are recessed and the beam is smooth or clean:)

bcwsport
10-27-2008, 06:05 PM
I stand corrected, the frost depth for foundation is 30" for plumbing is 36"...footing depth for foundations are 30" required by Howard County where we are installing this particular job.

Mark
10-27-2008, 08:28 PM
The frost line in Howard County MD officially is 36". This is to be re-evaluated in 2010. I think they will lower it, but who knows. Only takes one harsh winter (which we haven't had in 14 years) The retaining walls are at a depth of 36", the dividing walls are not. We have an 8" pour under everything and this will work fine. These walls are going to be solid stone...to make a point, where is the footing beneath this wall?

I'm not sure you made a point. None of us know what the footings are like below this wall as none of us built it.

When you say the walls are going to be solid stone......do you mean straight stone on a 8"concrete footer w/ no mud? Or .........???? I'm not drilling you just wondering, I'm interested in your practices.

Thanks

bcwsport
11-05-2008, 01:02 PM
I cannot say the last time I saw someone actually create a veneer from a natural boulder on site....but of course, we had to go on and do it on this install. Marking them and cutting them w/ a 14" saw, snapping those that need it and forming them w/ a tradtional wet saw.....the job should be magnificent once we get through.

musclecarboy
11-05-2008, 06:32 PM
Is there a reason for such thin CMU's? (the ones already installed)

MuirView Design
11-05-2008, 07:30 PM
Is there a reason for such thin CMU's? (the ones already installed)

It's a sitting wall for anorexic supermodels.....duh

custom patios
11-05-2008, 10:06 PM
Is there a reason for such thin CMU's? (the ones already installed)

to reduce the overall wall thickness.

Mark
11-05-2008, 11:12 PM
to reduce the overall wall thickness.

to what a 6-8" wide wall???

custom patios
11-05-2008, 11:20 PM
to what a 6-8" wide wall???

well...yes. not 6" no, but maybe 10" or so. you can knock 4 inches off the width of a wall by using a 4"cmu vs. an 8" you know that. you can buy 12"or 14" cap then instead of something alot larger and save some costs. sound unreasonable?

mrusk
11-05-2008, 11:30 PM
LOL Arnt these the walls with almost no footings in a frost zone?

custom patios
11-05-2008, 11:49 PM
LOL Arnt these the walls with almost no footings in a frost zone?

i think they are

musclecarboy
11-06-2008, 12:41 AM
LOL Arnt these the walls with almost no footings in a frost zone?

Thin wall, shallow footing, frost.... I dunno, doesn't look good:noidea:. Correct me if I'm missing something.

Mark
11-06-2008, 06:47 AM
well...yes. not 6" no, but maybe 10" or so. you can knock 4 inches off the width of a wall by using a 4"cmu vs. an 8" you know that. you can buy 12"or 14" cap then instead of something alot larger and save some costs. sound unreasonable?

What I appear to see is a 2" thick CMU stood on edge that is going to be veneered with again what appears to be maybe 3" thick material. That would put you at 8" wide approximately if both sides will be veneered. Sounds structuraly unstable to me. Are you involved with this job custom patios or is it BCW's???? I'm only recently starting to get a grasp on the fact that using a 4" CMU compared to an 8" CMU will give you a wall with less width!:)

bcwsport
11-06-2008, 09:28 AM
We are raising the grade on both sides of the footing, the patio is about 18" to 24" above grade on average. The yard side of the footer/wall will be raised 12" to 18" on average by a planter. The seating wall is designed to be 10" thick on average w/ the cmu/3" limestone and mortar.

custom patios
11-06-2008, 10:57 AM
What I appear to see is a 2" thick CMU stood on edge that is going to be veneered with again what appears to be maybe 3" thick material. That would put you at 8" wide approximately if both sides will be veneered. Sounds structuraly unstable to me. Are you involved with this job custom patios or is it BCW's???? I'm only recently starting to get a grasp on the fact that using a 4" CMU compared to an 8" CMU will give you a wall with less width!:)


home foundations have been built with 8" cmu's for decades now. are you saying they are structurally unsound? please dont misinterpret me as being argumentative, i'm just trying to understand your line of thinking. Am I missing something?

CaptainsLS
11-06-2008, 08:11 PM
I’m also interested in the construction of that wall, not saying it’s wrong just trying to understand your method. Rather than saying the wall is unstable, I might suggest that the use of the CMU decreases it’s stability. The best comparison I’ve heard is this, think of a double width wall as two slices of bread held together with peanut butter. They might stay stuck together, but can be pulled apart rather easily. If stretcher stones are used to span the width of the wall, you would create a more monolithic structure. I think the veneer you are making looks awesome, but why veneer? Why not use the full dimension of the stones to create the wall? Wouldn't eliminating the block work, and stone splitting more than make up what you might spend on a slightly larger cap?

Looking forward to seeing the veneer up. What are your production times to make it?

Mark
11-06-2008, 08:51 PM
Not saying an 8" CMU wall is unstable. My thoughts would be similar to Captains. Your 3 elements being a layer of 3" veneer a 2" CMU and then another 3" veneer. The footprint of each is very small and like Captain said it would be pretty easy to seperate each layer. If I was to be building a wall that I wanted 8" I would use a larger stone no CMU and follow through with full width stones tying the unit together as one. I bet with a swift kick of your foot you could kick that unit over the way it's being constructed. In fact I would put money on it. That aside, aesthetically an 8" wall IMO looks weak. As you mentioned, not trying to argue or cause controversy but that is my personal opinion.

custom patios
11-06-2008, 09:25 PM
Not saying an 8" CMU wall is unstable. My thoughts would be similar to Captains. Your 3 elements being a layer of 3" veneer a 2" CMU and then another 3" veneer. The footprint of each is very small and like Captain said it would be pretty easy to seperate each layer. If I was to be building a wall that I wanted 8" I would use a larger stone no CMU and follow through with full width stones tying the unit together as one. I bet with a swift kick of your foot you could kick that unit over the way it's being constructed. In fact I would put money on it. That aside, aesthetically an 8" wall IMO looks weak. As you mentioned, not trying to argue or cause controversy but that is my personal opinion.

and I totally agree with you. hopefully bwc or bcw or whatever will be on soon to help us understand his process.sorry bc, i am being to lazy to check back on your name. what is your name anyway?

custom patios
11-06-2008, 09:50 PM
Not saying an 8" CMU wall is unstable. My thoughts would be similar to Captains. Your 3 elements being a layer of 3" veneer a 2" CMU and then another 3" veneer. The footprint of each is very small and like Captain said it would be pretty easy to seperate each layer. If I was to be building a wall that I wanted 8" I would use a larger stone no CMU and follow through with full width stones tying the unit together as one. I bet with a swift kick of your foot you could kick that unit over the way it's being constructed. In fact I would put money on it. That aside, aesthetically an 8" wall IMO looks weak. As you mentioned, not trying to argue or cause controversy but that is my personal opinion.

Mark. if you look closely at the pics youll see the walls ties. but theres not nearly enough of them for stone work.

Meanix
11-06-2008, 10:08 PM
I would have used 10" or 12" block and then veneered looks more like and old fashioned wall. I also would have poured a real footer. Weight has nothing to do with the depth of the footer. Why are you skimping? I know work is hard to find but that puny block is worthless.

Mark
11-06-2008, 10:08 PM
Mark. if you look closely at the pics youll see the walls ties. but theres not nearly enough of them for stone work.

Right but my point is that you have 3 very thin vertical elements with no larger footprinted materials. Even with 4 times the amount of wall ties technically there is still no interlocking of the materials.

custom patios
11-06-2008, 10:13 PM
I would have used 10" or 12" block and then veneered looks more like and old fashioned wall. I also would have poured a real footer. Weight has nothing to do with the depth of the footer. Why are you skimping? I know work is hard to find but that puny block is worthless.

man... this guys taking a beating.lol

custom patios
11-06-2008, 10:21 PM
Right but my point is that you have 3 very thin vertical elements with no larger footprinted materials. Even with 4 times the amount of wall ties technically there is still no interlocking of the materials.

oh wait, ok i see more ties.
I'm still trying to figure out why they are cutting up good building stone. my guess is to go for a seemless ashlar stack look. i know what you are saying though; just use bond stones and problem solved.
its kind of like a micro mini masonry wall... how cute

Meanix
11-06-2008, 10:22 PM
Was that the knock out punch

bcwsport
11-07-2008, 09:47 AM
Wow, by the looks of it, there were quite a few people having fun here last evening.
Well, I will begin by explaining the stones. A frined of mine (mason) was hired by an excavation company to be in charge of about 100 million tons of wakefield marble (dolomitic Limestone, magnese carbinate) that they aquired through a big ecavation contract with Lehigh (cement company) Lehigh, of course quarries for dolomite (calcium carb) for their cement production. In this operation, there is plenty of impure stone (sedements etc) stone unearthed. This is the stone that we are using....it is called Wakefield marble by the us geological survey. It is what was used to build the final (an largest) stage of the Washington Monument. It is a recycled material from cement production. anyway, the company that has been pulling it out of the Lehigh quarry has asked my buddy to help them refine it into a building material. If you look back into earlier photos in this thread, you will see many of the stones (boulders) I am speaking of. So, I suggested we use it on one of my design/builds. This job (I have been showing) was sold as an EP Henry coventry wall/floor installation. It is about a 50-G job w/deck, fire pit, grill cabinet, raised landscape area, water feature. I had mentioned the prospect of using all natural stone on this job to the homeowners, had them out to the quarry and they fell in love with the idea and agreed to allow an open house for material suppliers once we are complete. So, we had to show the organization that has aquired the stones, how they need to be refined and so we are handcutting them on site to create a pattern that will work for these stones. The goal is to become a part of the production of this operation as well. So, the job was sold as an EP Henry engineered patio and we are using Peruvian Travertine on the floor and dolomitic limestone on the walls, pit, grill cabinet etc..... we are hence, cutting them to create an ashlar pattern.
Our main supplier has agreed to give us a big break on the cost of the travertine and want in on the promotion open house, plus they want dibbs on the limestone products once we are through. they have visited the quarry as well.
Out of time for now....will add to this thread and answer more questions later.....but one other thing. on the outter perimeter of the seating walls will be a Raised planter. The patio is 18" to 24" above grade and with the raised planter, this will put the footings well below any (global warming) frost line....at least 30" or more on average.
Here are some more completed pics of another engineered job we have 99% complete

chardscapes
11-07-2008, 11:10 AM
Very nice work.

ClearValley
11-07-2008, 05:20 PM
Looks nice, glad I don't have to mow the small section in between though

bcwsport
11-07-2008, 06:00 PM
Thanks guys

custom patios
11-07-2008, 08:01 PM
I wouldnt mind seeing some pics of this hand cut ashlar at work?

bcwsport
11-09-2008, 12:59 PM
I should have some pics of the walls being set tomorrow or tues

bcwsport
11-19-2008, 04:22 AM
a taste of wakefield marble

bcwsport
12-12-2008, 05:18 PM
Coming along, slowly but surely..... Almost 3 1/2 wks of just cutting.

cgland
12-12-2008, 05:37 PM
Looks great! I'm just concerned with some of the vertical seams in the wall. Keep em coming

joeymaze
12-12-2008, 06:26 PM
How cool is that! You don't see that everyday.
Joe

MuirView Design
12-12-2008, 06:44 PM
Looks great! I'm just concerned with some of the vertical seams in the wall. Keep em coming

You mean horizontal seams, right?

Great job BCW! How many blades have you gone through so far? How does the customer like it? Is this one of those jobs that's more for the portfolio and less for the bank account? I just ask cause I know you said you were originally supposed to do SRW walls.

bcwsport
12-12-2008, 07:36 PM
Yes, this is one for the portfolio. We are burning through blades, but the guys out at the quarry are finally getting motivated to fabricate the big dogg saw and conveyors. We are making believers outta them. The homeowners are completely thrilled with it so far. Cannot wait to get the Travertine rollin.

cgland
12-12-2008, 08:12 PM
Adam - I mean vertical seams like the last pic in post 117

bcwsport
01-09-2009, 07:01 PM
going slow on the dolomite job, hope to have some pics that show a bunch of progress in the next 10-14 days. here is one we are currently working on as well, thought I'd add it cause I haven't seen pics posted here for a few weeks. We are using some of these landscape boulders here to create something that no one else has done in this sub division. Plus planting some cypress, crepe myrtles and a golden rain tree

bcwsport
01-09-2009, 07:08 PM
few more pics, cambridge renaissance pavers with coventry walls and intergral lighting

joeymaze
01-09-2009, 09:02 PM
The boulder idea is original. Was that yours or the clients idea.

Pro Cut
01-09-2009, 09:48 PM
Very nice. Good to see you still got stuff in the works!

MuirView Design
01-09-2009, 09:55 PM
BCW,

Good work.....I'm glad someone is still making money out there. Boulders look great....like a page out of Zedosix's playbook. My only critique overall is the walkway. The curves are a little flat and the pattern with soldier course on one side makes it look very narrow. Other than that, looks killer.

musclecarboy
01-09-2009, 09:59 PM
BCW,

Good work.....I'm glad someone is still making money out there. Boulders look great....like a page out of Zedosix's playbook. My only critique overall is the walkway. The curves are a little flat and the pattern with soldier course on one side makes it look very narrow. Other than that, looks killer.

I was thinking every letter of what Adam said. The zedo-style boulder placement is sweet. The walkway is a let-down of the project. Personally, I'd zip a cut through the right side and throw a soldier course in, it'll just help soften it to the eye and help the flow.

I can't flippin wait for an update on that last project, it looks unreal so far.

bigvictu
01-10-2009, 12:03 AM
Sweet work with the boulders.

mrusk
01-10-2009, 12:50 AM
I am digging the boulders, but hating the walkway. Walk needs a boarder on the inside. BUT the walkway is still to narrow for a sailor course boarder.


I will not build any walkway under 5 feet wide. For one it cost the client very little to builder a wider walkway. 2 it looks better. 3 the boarder looks proportionate with the field pavers. 4 It looks like you laid your pvc edging on the bedding sand and not the base.

You have good cuts between the rock and the seating wall so I know you have a good eye. I am just heart broken over the walkway. Also, you just cut the siding, flash, and add new j channel instead of building stairs against the siding.

MuirView Design
01-10-2009, 06:03 AM
I think a running bond for the walk would've been a nice touch. (and less work) It's tricky to get a nice transition from random pattern to bond pattern though.

bcwsport
01-10-2009, 09:45 AM
Thanks for the imput guys. Very good and valid points here. The walkway issue I understand Ruskie, it is too narrow for an interior soldier course. We even started it that way and took it out because the center pattern was virtually non-existant. It is only 30" wide. The total walkway is 44 l/f. adding another 30" to that would add close to two grand in cost. I was (according to the homeowner) tipping his budget to begin with. I think that 36" wide walkway will be my min from now on. At leat the soldiers and the pattern can co-exist w/out one overwhelming the other. The boulder idea was brought about by a photograph I have from a design book. The homeowner wanted something that no one else had in the neighborhood. I definately have learned from Zedo's designs....have all the boulders I can handle, so we went for it. I am diggin it as well. Many neighbors have been stopping by to see it because of the fact that it has that uniqueness to it. I think standing out from the crowd (in this area anyway) is just where I want to be going into 2009.

zedosix
01-10-2009, 11:17 AM
Looks nice, really like the retaining wall with boulders, how original is that. nod: Top step should be a bit deeper, like maybe another foot and one foot wider as well, that doesn't give enough room to manoeuver at the patio door. I would of made a transition to runner bond on the walkway and not put the tall curbs, I think it really defines the narrowness of the walkway. I've shown this one a couple of times I think a while back, and will save you countless hours (read money) on laying that walkway, it is also so much easier to add a row if you feel it isn't wide enough to start with. But I'm happy to see some of my ideas being put to use, the owners love it and it will bring you more work. How cool is that!

chardscapes
01-10-2009, 01:14 PM
Nice work. How is the water going to drain by the sitting wall ?

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 10:44 AM
Looks nice, really like the retaining wall with boulders, how original is that. nod: Top step should be a bit deeper, like maybe another foot and one foot wider as well, that doesn't give enough room to manoeuver at the patio door. I would of made a transition to runner bond on the walkway and not put the tall curbs, I think it really defines the narrowness of the walkway. I've shown this one a couple of times I think a while back, and will save you countless hours (read money) on laying that walkway, it is also so much easier to add a row if you feel it isn't wide enough to start with. But I'm happy to see some of my ideas being put to use, the owners love it and it will bring you more work. How cool is that!

Thanks zedo......I admit that I have found inspiration in your pics. I love this design you have. Is that Arbel & Bergerac (spelling?)

I the wall was built above a drain field and there is a 1/8" to a 1/4" slope on the patio

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 10:49 AM
Some new pics.....been slow going on this project because of the amount of moisture in December and the sub freezing temps in Jan.....Still going though. Check out how this fire pit is turning out. This is hard shale with veins of dolomite.....this stuff was hard to cut w/out damaging it, but I think it was worth the effort. Once done, cleaned up and enhanced.....going to look sweet. We added just enough of it into the rest of the walls for it to really be a nice accent piece.

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 10:50 AM
couple more

4seasons
01-24-2009, 11:27 AM
I have to say that is one of the coolest looks I've seen in awhile.
I love that stone.

zedosix
01-24-2009, 11:38 AM
Thanks zedo......I admit that I have found inspiration in your pics. I love this design you have. Is that Arbel & Bergerac (spelling?)



Its trafalgar and arbel, none of it is mega. My wrists can't take it anymore lifting that stuff.

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 11:41 AM
I think that trafalgar and bergerac must be the same stone from different manufacturers. In MD the arbel line and bergerac lines are from Belgard.

zedosix
01-24-2009, 11:48 AM
Bergerac has been around for years, the trafalgar is relatively new in permacons line.

MuirView Design
01-24-2009, 11:57 AM
Woooow. I'm loving the job so far! Absolutely gorgeous! I can't get over those veins running through the stone in the firepit. True craftsmanship. You should be very proud.

What is the field going to consist of? Please don't say pavers.

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 12:25 PM
Thanks Adam......pavers? That would certainly be bad lol. No we are using a golden travertine 8"x16" in a herringbone. We are using a lighter color travertine as the cap (bullnose) you can see some of the cap peices in one of the pics. I didn't want a golden color as the wall cap because there is so much white in the wall. I am giddy about how this job will look once we are through.

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 12:27 PM
You know....now that I am thinking about it. I think that I may go with the golden travertine as the cap on the fire pit. I am envisioning that & diggin what I see in my mind. What do you think? the cap of the fire pit matching the floor?

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 12:29 PM
I will post some pics where I lay the golden travertine on the pit along with pics of the lighter color and see what you guys think. I'll try to post some on moday or tues.

MuirView Design
01-24-2009, 03:48 PM
That 2" double bullnose travertine is crazy expensive...I can't believe you are capping all the walls with it.

When I was designing the firepit into the larger tavertine job I did last year, I was really torn about the firepit capping as well. Ultimately we decided against using travertine for the firepit as I just wasn't sure how it would hold up to the heat with all the air pockets in it. Plus, I was afraid it would stain pretty bad.

Are you doing the lighter stone for the border as well?

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 04:16 PM
Yes, all the way around. You are right about the expense of that like 16 bucks per ft. Well, one of our suppliers got a raw deal from Gothic Stone about a yr ago and went with another supplier. We talked them out of caps that they had from that transaction for......$6 each (12"x12"). ssshhh. don't tell anyone. Otherwise, the caps on this job, I think like 80+ would've been outrageous. I can only see them selling the bullnose to people laying like 1 to 2 steps. Who can afford them? I mean over 2grand just to cap your wall?...nutzo

bcwsport
01-24-2009, 04:22 PM
Oh and by the way, what did you cap you fire pit with? Maybe I should consider the heat. we are using some enormous fire brick, but maybe that will prove to be insufficient. We are going to seal the cap and pound it into the HO to continue to do so (at least on the fire pit). But, I wouldn't know what elso to use on this job. I don't want a 3rd material.

LeisureSpecialties
02-03-2009, 06:15 PM
Craig...I think the Gold bullnose on the fire pit would be pretty sweet! Isnt that what you are using on the steps? Did you start laying the floor yet...I am excited. I want to come see if any of the floor is down! You are not supposed to tell the deals I give you...they are only for you cuz you are special:)

mrusk
02-03-2009, 07:34 PM
looks good man

bcwsport
02-04-2009, 01:06 AM
Craig...I think the Gold bullnose on the fire pit would be pretty sweet! Isnt that what you are using on the steps? Did you start laying the floor yet...I am excited. I want to come see if any of the floor is down! You are not supposed to tell the deals I give you...they are only for you cuz you are special:)

I didn't disclose my source....oh well the cat's outta the bag now!

Thanks Ruskie.

cgland
02-08-2009, 12:07 AM
On the pillars, I would have thought you would block it up then veneer it. Is that method just as strong? Looks great btw!

bcwsport
02-10-2009, 03:49 PM
Some progress this week. Finally had a bit of a thaw. The stonework is on the north side of the property which will be awsome in the summer, but it slows us down considerably this time of year. In process of getting the cap cuts finished, the wiring for the low voltage all worked out and pouring the tops of the walls. Hopefully if the weather holds up a bit longer, we can start laying the travertine.

bcwsport
02-10-2009, 04:01 PM
On the pillars, I would have thought you would block it up then veneer it. Is that method just as strong? Looks great btw!


The columns are built up with cmu, we left about 6" at the top for all of the conduit. We ran the 10 guage low voltage wire through and independent conduit and we have the 110 wire running through a standard 1" conduit. we have each segemented in case one needs to be replace, we can just pull lines between each light fixture. Once in place, we filled the top 5 to 6" with concrete.

Here's a few more pics from today

4seasons
02-10-2009, 07:13 PM
Thats a project to be proud of!

joeymaze
02-10-2009, 09:57 PM
That is going to be sweet! I noticed that there is no lawn. Are you going to install the lawn also?

bcwsport
02-10-2009, 10:17 PM
Thank you guys. there was a lawn before we started... you may be looking at the lots next door. We will be replacing/repairing the lawn in the HO's yard once we get the patio completed. We tore it up big time with the prowler. it has been really wet back there.

Pro Cut
02-10-2009, 11:50 PM
I was wondering how those walls were going to hold up until I noticed your filling them with concrete. Very cool project

bcwsport
02-20-2009, 09:11 AM
some updated pics.....heading for the home stretch on this project......finally. + the most expensive trash receptacle in the state of maryland ;)

4seasons
02-20-2009, 09:26 AM
suggestion?

loved everything until you showed the back rubble wall.
What if you just used some large boulders and strategically placed them and then plant them. They would serve the same purpose and it wouldnt look like an after-thought.
because the couple big guys look nice, maybe group some like that in 3's-5's with different sizes

zedosix
02-20-2009, 09:33 AM
I have to agree with 4season on that one, I loved it right up to the last shot of that randomn laid wall. I think its the mix of randomn vs linear that sets it off???
That fire pit is too nice to put a fire in there!

bcwsport
02-20-2009, 10:01 AM
You guys are right on target. We have saved up the last stones (big mommas) to integrate into the landscape walls. I counted 14 of them yesterday. It will be an improvement once they go in for sure. Also, the stacked stones are filthy, we will power wash them to reveal their color. On Monday, we are going to lay the bigger boulders around the entire thing, space them out and insert them.

paponte
02-20-2009, 03:21 PM
Kudos on the stone work. I would have to agree was looking F'ing insane, till I saw the last pics. Everything flowed, but with the random drystack, almost makes you go cross eyed.

LeisureSpecialties
02-20-2009, 04:04 PM
Was out there today...looks great! I wasnt sure about the new wall, but after talking with Dave, and looking at it from a couple of different angles, once it is cleaned, sealed and landscaped, it might look better! It was so freaking cold out there, we were thinking about testing the firepit :)

bcwsport
02-20-2009, 05:08 PM
Thanks Carrie. We have definite plans to address the landscape walls. Will be adding more of the larger stones. Been brain storming it with my guys this afternoon. The stones are going to clean up nicely, like Ruskie on a Friday night;)

bcwsport
02-20-2009, 05:08 PM
Sorry Rusk.... Just popped in my head that way...lol

Dountman
02-20-2009, 09:11 PM
Although I can't really see what is beyond you in the pictures...the grade change does not look so significant that the random stack wall is needed. Why not just grade out the remaining area outside of the seating walls and patio area?

chardscapes
02-20-2009, 10:03 PM
Timeless . Do you live in Longfellow ?

bcwsport
02-21-2009, 09:26 AM
No I live in Columbia. I am not even sure where longfellow is.

bigvictu
02-21-2009, 04:37 PM
Just plant some trailing flowers over that rubble wall and it will soften it up. Seriously you must have like 1000 manhours on that project by now. That fireplace rock is crazy cool.

chardscapes
02-21-2009, 07:56 PM
ok I saw a timeless construction Ford in Longfellow section of Columbia. I am woking up there.

bcwsport
02-21-2009, 09:41 PM
Ah, I see. A green 250? That is David, my biz partner. I think I know where the Longfellow area is....over near Harper's choice

chardscapes
02-22-2009, 09:27 AM
Ah, I see. A green 250? That is David, my biz partner. I think I know where the Longfellow area is....over near Harper's choice
Yes I am building a sunporch right down from him.

bcwsport
02-22-2009, 10:30 PM
Nice, hey you are close to this dolomite job. If you have a few minutes to spare and would like to check it out. just let me know.

chardscapes
02-23-2009, 08:16 AM
Sure PM me.

bcwsport
02-27-2009, 09:29 AM
inchin right along. here is a water feature we are installing. it is rough right now, but while it is wet, you can see the colors in the stones pretty well. even the gravel (same stuff). The gravel is all bunched up because we are using muriatic and water to wash it.

4seasons
02-27-2009, 10:09 AM
constructive critisism.....

the water feature- I dont know your budget, but if you could have done masonary like the walls and have water flowing from weirs to the next level.
or get the stones to lay more level by piecing the puzzle a little better, maybe chipping them andfitting them.

boulder wall-- Its getting better. Still think ifyou used more large stones it would pop more. burry some of the bigger onesso they look like they've been there awhile and you uncovered them. Take most of the large ones by the masonarywall and move them in groups below your stacked wall or integrated into the stacked wall. How far below the wall are plants going?

MuirView Design
02-27-2009, 01:01 PM
I don't understand how you guys do such great hand cut masonry, but not carry the same principles into the stacked stone work. Make sure your guys really pay attention to keeping the stack work as level as possible. It's not a big deal if it's a fieldstone wall out in a field, but when it's up against level brick and surrounding ashlar style masonry work, it really detracts from the good parts of the job. There are several spots in the water feature walls where you have nice square stones turned on a forty five degree angle. Those should be propped up so they you advantage of their levelness. The wall will be more sound as a result.

I love the concept over all....it's just the details that would bother me.

What's the deal with the geotextile sticking out near the wall? Do you have that under the pond liner? Is the water going to fall over both walls and end up in a dry well under the bottom tier? I can't really tell what the intention is.

cgland
02-27-2009, 04:14 PM
I have to agree with Adam, your masonry work is beautiful, but your drystack walls really need work. Not trying to be mean, just my opinion.

JZap
02-27-2009, 04:36 PM
I won't criticize b/c I personally am not as gifted as some in dry stacked walls, but you basically should be following some general guidelines like: level courses, breaking up lines, vary sizes, and try to keep consistent gaps. Again, I think the rest of the project looks great, but dry stacked walls are an art.

mrusk
02-27-2009, 06:15 PM
RIPPPPPP out that dry stack wall around the patio. Just tell the client the material just doesnt work too good in that application. Then just bring in a load of top soil to grade up to the patio.

The dry stack KILLS this job.

MuirView Design
02-27-2009, 07:00 PM
Here's a little stacked wall we did a few years ago. We used the little ones in there to prop up the bigger stones to level. It takes a lot of time, but the results are a lot cleaner.

joeymaze
02-28-2009, 10:04 AM
RIPPPPPP out that dry stack wall around the patio. Just tell the client the material just doesnt work too good in that application. Then just bring in a load of top soil to grade up to the patio.

The dry stack KILLS this job.

I personally don't get into heavy criticism. It is obvious you are a very talented masonry contractor, but the dry stacked walls just aren't cutting it. The earlier pictures of this job had masterpiece written all over it. I am afraid after everything is said and done that these dry stacks will be what stands out:shocked: This whole overall design would be complete with some well placed boulders with planting beds that tie into the patio. You are an awesome mason thats what should stand out.

zedosix
02-28-2009, 10:17 AM
I really love the main patio and as far as I'm concerned it should just stand out on its own. Even if the lower wall and water feature were done perfectly level and true, I don't think it would compliment the square cut walls. A job like that needs to stand out on its own. :noidea:

MuirView Design
02-28-2009, 01:15 PM
Man we're a tough crowd! No wonder no one wants to post pics!

I think if you strategically plant this job, you can still direct a lot of the focus back onto the patio. With good planting, those lower walls will just disappear anyway.

I'm sure it's not feasible to rip anything out at this point as you probably have a solid week of work into those walls and that pond. Just make the most of it and try to tweak here and there. The job will still be beautiful once everything is cleaned and graded and the lawn and landscape come back to life.

When it's all said and done for me, if there are still one or two little things that bother me (and there always are), I just strategically leave them out of the frame when taking pics for the portfolio. :)

Harmony Design Group
02-28-2009, 05:28 PM
Adam Nice stacked wall what kind of stone is that?

MuirView Design
02-28-2009, 05:33 PM
Adam Nice stacked wall what kind of stone is that?


Marc,

It's called Salmon Ridge out this way.

Harmony Design Group
03-01-2009, 09:33 AM
Adam you should definitely add that picture to your web site.

ClearValley
03-12-2009, 09:28 AM
Adam Nice stacked wall what kind of stone is that?

Looks like what they call west moubtain around here, Love the wall Adam!

bcwsport
03-12-2009, 08:48 PM
Some shots of the floor, got it just about cut in.

mrusk
03-12-2009, 08:58 PM
Why the trip step?

MuirView Design
03-12-2009, 09:39 PM
It's really comin' along! Sure is colorful. Cuts look good around the firepit. I know what a pain they are. Are you going to be putting pointing joints in all the wall and pillar caps?

custom patios
03-12-2009, 11:20 PM
i dont want to come across as the bad guy here. look, its obvious you guys can do nice work, but the whole design is completely overworked. its over the top.... as far as material. maybe its the clashing color of the travertine, or introducing the change in material for the firepit. the material choices are not working together. i dont know, its a nice design it just feels busy. no unity. craftsmanship looks great though. uh, how long have you been on this job?

bigvictu
03-13-2009, 12:17 AM
I tell you what. I would try to get some black travertine or granite tiles or something similiar to the firepit and randomly spread them out maybe one every 75 sq ft in the patio to tie the black in. I kind of see what custom patios is saying. I think it looks cool as hell but isn't flowing to me. I think the light cap on the walls throws it off to me, I like the cap to be a shade darker than the walls if its going to be a different color. Also I'd really plant some mature shrubs/trees around the edge if it is in the budget to close the space up a bit.

chardscapes
03-13-2009, 08:33 AM
How does the sitting wall drain ?

bcwsport
03-13-2009, 09:00 AM
i dont want to come across as the bad guy here. look, its obvious you guys can do nice work, but the whole design is completely overworked. its over the top.... as far as material. maybe its the clashing color of the travertine, or introducing the change in material for the firepit. the material choices are not working together. i dont know, its a nice design it just feels busy. no unity. craftsmanship looks great though. uh, how long have you been on this job?

Not a bad guy, just expressing your opinion. It is wild looking. But, it is a one of a kind. It really looks phenominal in person. I guess I will wait to post pics once it is all the way completed w/ landscape. Then you can cast your stones. I was really trying to post pics showing all the aspects of building something like this. Actually turning one and two man boulders and some rip rap into an ashlar veneer right on the job site. I do have a bit of the black limestone in the walls that really ties in w/ the fire pit. Plus, we have quite alot of golden in the walls that ties into the floor color. The thing is super dusty right now and the color has yet to be exposed. Once Dupont comes and uses their way over priced sealant on the walls, pit (not floor). This thing will be drop dead gorgeous and completely unique.

The patio drains off of the direction of the 3rd pic in this last photo post. Plus, we have about 3 weep holes about 3" below grade (in the 3/4) gravel. One weep hole in each level of the patio. Have yet to have drainage issue on patio level and this is by nature a very wet back yard.

bcwsport
03-13-2009, 09:07 AM
It's really comin' along! Sure is colorful. Cuts look good around the firepit. I know what a pain they are. Are you going to be putting pointing joints in all the wall and pillar caps?

yes Adam, we will bond the caps w/ joints. This is an important step. No air can be allowed in the bond or joint. Must create a (suction) bond w/ a firmly keyed joint. Want this cap bond/joint to last 50+ yrs w/ little to no maintenance.

MuirView Design
03-13-2009, 09:57 AM
BCW,

I really enjoy seeing the progress pics of the job. Please don't let a little critical feedback hinder your posting.

I think just seeing the amount of work you guys put into this job.....hand cutting all the veneer and busting ass all winter long, and now to be at this point in the game where you are almost done....it's inspiring to say the least.

So you guys are going to seal the walls? Personally I think the walls are so colorful and vibrant, I would be worried about them becoming overkill. I think a more neutral color travertine on the patio would've helped to quiet down the overall affect.

I notice only the two post coming out of the pillars. Are you doing a pergola of some kind? Where will it attach to?

Also, did you guys dye the mortar Red for the pointing joints?

bcwsport
05-05-2009, 04:52 PM
Almost...almost there. Waiting for some over priced lanterns and a bit of landscape. Oh yeah, and the right grill cover too.

zedosix
05-05-2009, 05:00 PM
Very nice work bc, I know you spent a long time there so make sure you get alot of pictures and use that to sell your talent. You should be proud.

MuirView Design
05-05-2009, 05:34 PM
Finally someone besides me, Rusk and Captain posted some pics!

You had me wondering at first, but you pulled it off for sure. Craftsmanship looks great and the whole thing seemed to tie together for you. You took a chance on those materials and you really made them work. Thanks for sharing the whole process with us.

ClearValley
05-05-2009, 07:47 PM
Man that really came together well..... The travertine is really sweet.Nice work

bcwsport
05-05-2009, 09:43 PM
Thanks guys. I will submit more once all the ends are tied up. The water feature really turned out awesome, pics do not show how beautiful it really is. I will give more perspectives. I will be posting some other work soon as well. We are getting somewhat swamped right now. I am quite pleasantly surprised.

bcwsport
05-08-2009, 11:31 PM
second phase of this retaining wall we did last aug. just finished this lower section a few weeks ago

bcwsport
05-08-2009, 11:37 PM
the second leg of a retaining wall we did last august. we added 74 sq/ft of coventry and completed the length of the yard. We started this second at the steps

bcwsport
05-08-2009, 11:42 PM
I think that the entire wall system uses about 240 sq/ft of srw/caps. The reason for the mud set stacking of the shale boulders is that is where his property line is. The wall curves in and out from his property line

Dvmcmr
05-08-2009, 11:53 PM
Beautiful landscape boulders + veneer stones. Kind of unique looking stuff. Colors are intense and it's a green building material. Some local distributors are just getting their hands on it.



That is some funky looking stone in post 12, pretty cool coloration that I've never seen anything like.


Nice install work by the way.

bcwsport
05-13-2009, 11:31 PM
A couple of pics from a job we are just about finished. Nothing fancy, but kind of cool.

mpickel
05-23-2009, 12:35 AM
What is your total hours in that job? I think it looks great!

bcwsport
05-23-2009, 07:47 PM
Roughly 80 hrs on the patio and 65 hrs on the deck. a couple of updated pics.....Thanks for the compliment.

bcwsport
05-26-2009, 01:16 PM
A few new pics of some recent installs

bcwsport
05-26-2009, 01:19 PM
The front entrance remodel shows off the Imperial line from EP. The bullnose are 4" coventry, the pavers are coventry brickstone. The garden walls were existing, we had to rework them into our landing. I need to show the before pics here. Another contractor really left them with a mess. The lights are integral. The 2nd set of pics are just some landscape material we added to a job we did late fall.

bcwsport
05-26-2009, 01:22 PM
used the new techniseal rg+ here as well

zedosix
05-26-2009, 05:46 PM
You gotta work on the smoothness of those curves my friend.

cgland
05-26-2009, 08:35 PM
I have to agree with Zedo, The work looks good, but the radii are really off. The curves are not smooth at all. Other than that, nice job.

MuirView Design
05-26-2009, 09:17 PM
I agree. I think that the lack of flow in the curves is what separates good from great. It's a pet peeve of mine in the field and we have found lots of little tricks to get better at it.

I'm wondering, do you overlay the pattern and then cut out the curve in place? Do you use any field measurements to mark out your radius points, or use edging or small OD PVC to bend out your radii before you mark it?

I'm not trying to pick apart your work, just curious as to what adjustments you could make to really take your projects from 7's to 10's.

mrusk
05-26-2009, 09:46 PM
Lets start a fun drive to buy bcw 100 feet of 3/4 pvc. I mean its like 12 bucks for 100 feet. I belive in BCW and think a 12 dollar purchase could take his work to the next level.

danf
05-26-2009, 10:21 PM
I have to agree on the curves as well. It's hard to tell in a couple of the pics, but how often (and well) do you check your bond lines? Some of them look to be a little off. :bolt:

Mark your curves with some PVC conduit. We use sticks of 1/2".

I gotta ask- whats the dark stuff on the edge of the steps where they meet the stoop on the left side? Looks like mortar...... Is that the Techniseal?

bcwsport
05-27-2009, 09:33 AM
I am hearin you guys. Lines do need tweeking. See it so much more clearly in pics. The gray stuff on the last pic is just some wet p-sand that was spoon fed in a few areas on the final day of clean up/tidy up. When I have a perfectly round area, we (central) post a wire and run it around the perimeter to create our lines, but in this instance a crooked eyeball followed measurement points out from the existing wall, marked them and connected the dots. The flatness you all are seeing was created in the final cutz... I will rework that. Cannot leave that one flat line there. Need to take some advice from Roy Rogers "slow down cow poke" It is much more apparent looking from the yard then looking down on it. How about a Ruskutorial on using some poly conduit to create radii?

mrusk
05-27-2009, 09:55 AM
I'll do a thread in about 2 weeks when I start the next hardscape job. We use pvc to even lay out curves for walls.

danf
05-27-2009, 10:01 PM
When you are getting ready to install the soldier, do you cut your field pavers in place or mark and take to a chop saw?

zedosix
05-27-2009, 10:20 PM
When you are getting ready to install the soldier, do you cut your field pavers in place or mark and take to a chop saw?

Mark in place and bring to the saw. I hate cutting in place, its just a complete mess and screws up the sand bed. Some guys may dissagree, but we've been cutting this way for 20 yrs at least.

mrusk
05-27-2009, 10:30 PM
When you are getting ready to install the soldier, do you cut your field pavers in place or mark and take to a chop saw?

I mark with pvc. Go over once with demo saw to score the mark. Then go over again with demo saw cutting the paver fully. ALL IN PLACE.

danf
05-27-2009, 11:02 PM
I know you do. :D That's essentially how I do it too.

I was wondering how bcw does it.

musclecarboy
05-28-2009, 12:00 AM
Mark in place and bring to the saw. I hate cutting in place, its just a complete mess and screws up the sand bed. Some guys may dissagree, but we've been cutting this way for 20 yrs at least.

Thats what I do as well. Zip a line about a 1/4" deep then move them to the saw. Zedo, you use a wet table saw correct? I just put them on my rough block holder thats a bit better than a skid.

zedosix
05-28-2009, 06:46 AM
Thats what I do as well. Zip a line about a 1/4" deep then move them to the saw. Zedo, you use a wet table saw correct? I just put them on my rough block holder thats a bit better than a skid.

We use a wet saw, this eliminates alot of the the toxic fumes and sore backs. All you young guys here who want to bend over and dry cut a 50' or 100' curve are going to pay for it with your health later in your life. The wet saw does make that one area a bit dirty but if you are two guys one keeps up with the running from patio to saw and back and the laying of soldier course.

chardscapes
05-28-2009, 07:57 AM
Zedo what wet saw are u running ?

danf
05-28-2009, 08:02 AM
I typically have a blower strategically placed to help get the dust away from the work area when cutting in place. Also try to use a dust mask. Depending on the tightness of the curve (and inside/outside) we'll use either the demo saw or an 8" electric circular.

The sand bed will be affected slightly, but no more than when you are putting in edging if you do it right.

joeymaze
05-28-2009, 09:20 AM
I tend to do a combination of both. Cut in place and mark and cut on a wet saw. It all depends on the tightness of radius and the paver size. I do usually set my edge restraints making sure the curves are good then I use a probst marking tool.

zedosix
05-28-2009, 05:59 PM
Zedo what wet saw are u running ?

all of them are target 14"

musclecarboy
05-28-2009, 06:02 PM
all of them are target 14"

Are those older Husqvarna saws? Electric or gas?

zedosix
05-28-2009, 06:14 PM
Are those older Husqvarna saws? Electric or gas?

They are now made by Husqvarna, I believe target was the older name. They are gas operated.

mrusk
05-28-2009, 08:15 PM
I run a ts400 with a 12" blade almost all the time. If we are building a wall i'll throw a 14" on her. But other whys i go with the 12.

MuirView Design
05-28-2009, 08:26 PM
I run a ts400 with a 12" blade almost all the time. If we are building a wall i'll throw a 14" on her. But other whys i go with the 12.

Same here. I will generally mark and cut in place for the in field and all soldier course and bullnose cuts will get cut with the gas table saw. For the infield cuts I also score first, then go back to the beginning an run the cut another one or two additional times before the last "all the way through" cut. 12" blade is the ticket.

Dountman
05-28-2009, 08:38 PM
Other than size, is the 12" blade a lot different than using the 14" blade? Only ran a 14" before and it seems to work well....except on those darn tight inside radius.

MuirView Design
05-28-2009, 08:45 PM
Other than size, is the 12" blade a lot different than using the 14" blade? Only ran a 14" before and it seems to work well....except on those darn tight inside radius.

Exactly. The 12" blad has less "ass" coming around on those inside curves, so you are not knicking up the previous stone as you are making the cut. It might just be me, but it also seems like the 12" blade spins a little faster on the saw and can cut straight cuts a little quicker.

musclecarboy
05-28-2009, 08:51 PM
Exactly. The 12" blad has less "ass" coming around on those inside curves, so you are not knicking up the previous stone as you are making the cut. It might just be me, but it also seems like the 12" blade spins a little faster on the saw and can cut straight cuts a little quicker.

I think it may spin faster because it has less mass to spin around. What you're saying about the "ass" is true. Super tight cuts I use a $69 Ryobi 7 1/4" curcular saw w/ a cheapie diamond blade.

Dountman
05-28-2009, 08:53 PM
Cool thanks, I'll have to see if I can talk the boss into purchasing one for a test trial at least. What's the price difference between the 12" and 14"?

4seasons
05-28-2009, 09:50 PM
you can get a ts420 or 410 for like 900bucks

MuirView Design
05-28-2009, 10:11 PM
Dountman...we use the same saw and just switch between 14" and 12" blades.

Dountman
05-29-2009, 06:39 AM
Right I understand that, I meant price difference between the two blades.

MuirView Design
05-29-2009, 08:19 AM
I actually paid more for my 12" blade than I did for my 14". Depends more on the amount of diamonds on the teeth than the size of the metal.

musclecarboy
05-29-2009, 09:19 AM
Right I understand that, I meant price difference between the two blades.

You can get blades for as cheap as $69 for a 14" I've seen. I've also seen $300+ ones

SCgreenscapes
05-29-2009, 10:41 PM
I was purchasing the $80 blades until my supplier sold me a $250 blade for the same price to let me try it out. It really has lasted much longer. the cheap blades were wearing out after 1.5 jobs. the expensive blade has lasted 2.5 jobs and still has plenty of wear left. It hurts to drop that much money on a blade, but it does make a difference.

zedosix
05-30-2009, 11:14 PM
I was purchasing the $80 blades until my supplier sold me a $250 blade for the same price to let me try it out. It really has lasted much longer. the cheap blades were wearing out after 1.5 jobs. the expensive blade has lasted 2.5 jobs and still has plenty of wear left. It hurts to drop that much money on a blade, but it does make a difference.

The blades we buy last for 1/2 a season. They are in the 300 range. Forget the 100 dollar blades, they are garbage.

bcwsport
06-13-2009, 01:43 PM
our dive boulder delivered! A little unnerving getting it in....but it was worth the effort. Think looks (to me) a bit like the head of a gator.

kootoomootoo
06-13-2009, 05:44 PM
I want one

MuirView Design
06-15-2009, 09:53 PM
nice coping work. Are you guys taking up the symmetry pavers, or laying them?

zedosix
06-15-2009, 09:57 PM
love that diving rock, nice work!